If you could bottle the smell of a cow shed and turn it into a cheese, you would have livarot. Even its rind has a grittiness about it that is suggestive of the farmyard floor.
It is sometimes known as Le Colonel, because it has three to five strips of raffia or reedmace round it, drawing comparisons with a French army colonel’s uniform.
Or so they say.
I must admit, I hadn’t heard of it before. I think its pungency may be why it hasn’t quite made it internationally on the same scale as its neighbours, except among connoisseurs.
It isn’t a cheese to be enjoyed on its own. Experts reckon it is best served with a glass of calvados. Now you’re talking.